The DC Traveler

I recently had an opportunity to sit down for a glass of wine and a conversation with Tim Elliott, the Executive Chef of one of DC’s more popular and trendy restaurants, Mie N Yu. And I must say he’s nothing like the television version of a top chef.Yea, I admit it. I have a weakness for some of the cooking shows. Especially ones like Top Chef, The Next Iron Chef and Hells Kitchen, that offer a behind-the-scenes perspective of the culinary world.While many people may get the impression that chefs are hypercritical snobs with an aloof attitude about haute cuisine, my chat with Tim was just the opposite. Quick with a smile, he’s an instantly likable “real” guy, relaxed, down-to-earth and casual. The type that after just a few minutes you feel you’d be comfortable watching a game and having a cold beer with.Yet his relaxed and seemingly care-free attitude can’t hide his intense passion for food. I could tell he doesn’t just love food and cooking, but lives it with an almost consuming passion.Growing up in a big family in Baltimore, he said that family dinners were always “quiet, formal and reserved”, as he and his five siblings grew up under the ‘speak only when spoken to’ rule at the dinner table. The restaurant and his kitchen is completely different, busy, noisy and fun.His interest in cooking started early as a kid, where he learned to cook more traditional comfort foods such as roast chicken and mashed potatoes. When I asked him about his favorite comfort food; “Hot dogs,” he told me without hesitation. “Nathan’s hot dogs.”He graduated from the Baltimore International Culinary College where he excelled in preparing cold foods, among other techniques. After which he spent several years with the Marriott chain learning all aspects of the kitchen, including ice carving. His big break came when he was working as a salad chef and volunteered to work the grill. “Try me, I can do the work of both those guys,” he told the Executive Chef pointing to the two grill chefs. When he proved he could, his career took off, proving that hard work does pay off.When I asked him to describe his style of cooking, he hesitated for a moment and then replied, “Fusion, or perhaps Asian confusion”. His menu items cover the geographical areas of Asia, the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean, so it gives him a lot of room to blend flavors and ingredients. His cooking takes a spin on traditional Asian techniques, blending complex flavors with both local and exotic ingredients. Menu items reflect this approach with ingredients such as lavender, cardamom, dried blueberries, green tea rubs and wasabi.Tim lives in suburban Maryland with his wife, also a a culinary school graduate, who he laughing said isn’t allowed to cook at home. His hour-plus commute to Georgetown gives him lots of time to think about new menu items and approaches to food. When I asked him about the creative process for a new dish it became obvious that the process is not something that can be planned like a homework assignment. He told me ideas might come to him while commuting or may be the result of a more formal planning session with his other chefs. Some of his new dishes may be ready for the public after just one attempt, while others may take a bit more experimentation.His current favorite dish on the menu is seared scallops and foie gras, while the most popular dish is the Thai Red Snapper served with wasabi mashed potatoes and sesame stir fried snow peas. The most popular starter is the always-delicious Lacquered Duck Spring Roll.Located in the heart of Georgetown since 2003, Mie N Yu was voted “Favorite Restaurant of the Year” by the public in 2005 by the RAMMY awards and a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in both 2006 and 2007.MORE ->

Yet that success hasn’t gone to Tim’s head. Asked if winning awards adds pressure to be even more innovative or if it lets him relax a bit, he stated that a chef can never relax, especially with DC becoming such a Mecca for top chefs and great new restaurants. Tim changes his menu seasonally to keep things fresh, having just introduced a Vietnamese focus for Autumn 2007, that followed seasonal menus that each highlighted China and Japan.Tim tries to focus on all-natural and sustainable ingredients, when possible, as well as using some local ingredients. Some of his favorites include rockfish and Maryland crab that he successfully blends with Asian-influenced flavorings. His spicy chili crab cakes that I’ve tried before, are some of the best in DC with added flavor that you rarely find in a traditional crab cake.He was preparing a tasting menu for some diners and offered me some of his red curry mussels that are on the list of starters. They were tender, plump and bathed in a rich and spicy coconut milk and curry broth that was creamy enough to be a soup. The slight hint of lemongrass and just the right amount of curry heat made me want to order more. Just make sure you have extra bread on hand just for dunking in the delicious sauce. Even the New York strip steak has an Asian flair with Cashel Blue cheese, truffled mushrooms, roasted peppers and crispy tempura onions. On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, Tim serves up a special sushi menu with about a dozen tasty offerings. I had a chance to taste his special sushi with seared foie gras wrapped in Kobe beef carpaccio. It had fantastic flavors that emphasized the creaminess of the foie gras and the richness of the beef.Mie N Yu has an extensive wine list (over 300) and a nice list of more exotic martinis including a favorite Moroccan Delight that combines mango Vodka and liquor, with orange and white cranberry juice.Mie N Yu seats about 185 people in several rooms separated by gauzy tents filled with relaxing pillows in rooms reflecting the styles of a Turkish tent, a Moroccan bazaar and a Tibetan lounge. Seating ranges from small tables with leather stools to The Birdcage, the centerpiece table for larger groups.Mie N Yu offers wine tastings and other special events about once a month, such as a recent whisky tasting paired with select dishes.The long bar is popular (packed) on weekends, yet during the week is a great place for a relaxing drink and sampling a few of Tim’s appetizers.Reservations are recommended on weekends to avoid a wait and ask for a table served by Spencer, one of DC’s most friendly waiters. It can get a bit noisy when crowded, so ask for a booth if you want a more intimate experience. Just don’t miss the curry mussels.Mie N Yu
3125 M Street, NW
Washington, D.C. (map it)
202-333-6122Dinner Entrees - $20 - $50.Nearest Metro Subway Station - Foggy Bottom, Blue and Orange lines, then a 7 block walk.Parking - Metered street and paid garage parking is available._________________________________________________

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